To remove a stripped screw, start with the gentlest fix and only move on when it fails. Try a snug-fitting screwdriver first, then a wide rubber band. If the head sticks out of the surface, grip it with mole grips. If the head is flush and badly rounded, drill a small hole and use a screw extractor. Drilling the screw out is the last resort.

A stripped screw is not always a stuck screw, and the right fix depends on how much damage there is, where the screw sits and what tools you have. The flowchart and table below help you choose before you make things worse.

What Is a Stripped Screw?

A stripped screw is one where the slot or cross in the head has worn away, so your screwdriver spins instead of turning the screw. The head is rounded and shiny inside, and the bit keeps slipping out. This slipping is called cam-out.

It is not the same as a stuck screw. A stuck (seized) screw has a good head but will not turn because of rust, paint or thread-locking glue. A stripped screw has a damaged head but may turn freely once you grip it. Some screws are both, and that matters later when we look at penetrating oil.

Why Screws Strip

• Using the wrong bit size or type. A Phillips (PH) bit in a Pozidriv (PZ) screw is a classic UK mistake, because the two look alike.
• Not pushing down hard enough while turning.
• Using a worn screwdriver tip.
• Pressing at an angle instead of in line with the screw.
• Over-tightening, especially in soft wood or with a drill on a high torque setting.

Cross-head screws are prone to this. Cam-out happens because the angled walls of a Phillips recess push the driver upwards as torque rises. Wikipedia’s cam-out entry says there is no clear evidence this was a deliberate design feature, although it did help protect screws when early power tools had poor torque limiters. Pozidriv and Supadriv were later designs that aim to reduce it.

Before You Start: Work Out Your Problem

Four quick checks decide which method will work. Answer them in this order.

1. How Damaged Is the Head?

If the bit still bites a little before slipping, the damage is slight and gentle methods will work. If the recess is smooth and round, skip straight to methods that create a new grip.

2. Is the Head Proud, Flush or Recessed?

A proud head sticks out above the surface, so you can grip the sides of it. A flush or countersunk head sits level or below, so grip-based tools cannot reach it.

3. Is It Just Stripped, or Also Stuck?

Try turning the screw with your fingers on the edges of the head, or with pliers. If it turns easily, it is only stripped. If it resists hard, it is probably rusted or glued as well.

4. What Is It Fixed Into, and What Tools Have You Got?

Wood, metal, plasterboard, plastic and electronics each have their own risks (see the material section below). Check what you own too: a screwdriver set, a rubber band, mole grips, a hacksaw or rotary tool, a drill, or an extractor kit.

Which Method Suits Which Screw? (Comparison Table)

Use this table to match your situation. The methods are numbered in the same order as the guide below, from easiest and least damaging to most destructive.

Method	Best for	Difficulty	Main risk
1. Correct screwdriver or bigger bit	Slightly stripped screws	Easy	Slipping makes it worse
2. Rubber band	Minor stripping	Easy	Fails on smooth, rounded heads
3. Mole grips	Heads that stick out	Easy	Can snap the screw or mark the surface
4. Tap a bigger driver in	Partly damaged heads	Easy	Can damage the head further
5. Cut a new slot	Accessible, damaged heads	Moderate	Tool slips and marks the surface
6. Manual impact driver	Stripped and stuck screws	Moderate	Can crack brittle materials
7. Screw extractor	Badly stripped screws	Moderate	Extractor can snap inside the screw
8. Left-hand drill bit	Stuck or damaged screws	Moderate	Bit wanders if not centred
9. Drilling out	Screws that cannot be extracted	Difficult	Leaves a hole to repair

How to Remove a Stripped Screw: 9 Methods That Work

Work down the list. Stop as soon as one works, and wear safety glasses for any method that involves cutting, drilling or hammering.

1. Use the Correct Screwdriver or a Larger Driver Bit

Most stripped screws start with a mismatched bit. Check the head: a PZ screw has tiny extra lines between the cross arms, while a PH screw does not. Pick the bit that fills the recess most snugly, ideally a fresh one.

1. Press down firmly so the bit sits fully in the recess.
2. Keep the screwdriver in line with the screw.
3. Turn slowly anticlockwise.
4. Stop the moment it slips. Carrying on only wears the recess smoother.

2. Use a Rubber Band

A wide rubber band fills the worn gaps and adds grip between the bit and the screw. It only works when some of the recess is left and the screw is not stuck.

1. Choose a wide, flat rubber band, not a thin one.
2. Lay it flat over the stripped head.
3. Push the screwdriver firmly through it into the recess.
4. Turn slowly anticlockwise with steady downward pressure.

If the band shreds without the screw moving, the head is too smooth. Move on to the next method.

3. Use Mole Grips (Locking Pliers)

Mole grips are the UK name for locking pliers. They skip the damaged recess completely by clamping the outside of the head, so they only work when the head stands proud of the surface.

1. Clamp the jaws tightly around the head or the exposed shank.
2. Lock them on so they cannot slip.
3. Turn anticlockwise in short, slow movements.

Do not use too much force. Over-twisting can snap the screw off, which turns a small problem into a bigger one. On a flush or countersunk head, this method will not work.

4. Tap a Larger Screwdriver Into the Head

Tapping a slightly bigger driver into the worn recess can cut a fresh grip into the metal.

1. Pick a bit a little wider than the recess.
2. Tap it in gently with a hammer.
3. Press down hard and turn slowly.

This can damage the head further, so use it only when the damage is partial.

5. Cut a New Slot in the Screw Head

Cutting a straight groove across the head turns it into a slotted screw that a flat screwdriver can turn. You need enough head to cut into and room to work.

1. Put on safety glasses and tape over the nearby surface to protect it.
2. Cut one straight, shallow groove across the middle with a rotary tool and cutting disc, or a hacksaw blade.
3. Insert a wide flat screwdriver that fits the slot.
4. Turn slowly anticlockwise.

It is not suitable for tiny screws, hardened screws or heads sunk deep below the surface, where the tool could chew up the material around it.

6. Use a Manual Impact Driver

A manual impact driver turns a hammer blow into a sharp twist while pushing the bit into the head. That makes it useful when a screw is both stripped and seized. Fit the right bit, hit the end with a hammer and let the twist loosen the screw. It still needs some recess to grip, and the shock can crack brittle plastic, ceramics and thin cast metal.

7. Use a Screw Extractor Kit (Easy-Out)

A screw extractor has reverse-threaded flutes. You drill a small hole into the screw, then turn the extractor anticlockwise so it bites in tighter as it turns. This is the standard fix for badly stripped, flush screws.

1. Choose the extractor size that matches your screw. The correct pilot drill size is usually marked on the extractor or its packaging, as Black+Decker’s guide explains.
2. Mark the exact centre of the screw with a centre punch.
3. Drill the pilot hole straight and slowly with the recommended bit.
4. Tap or push the extractor into the hole.
5. Turn it anticlockwise with a wrench or tap handle until the screw backs out.

Most failures come from an off-centre hole, a hole that is the wrong size, or too much force. If the extractor snaps, its hardened steel is very hard to drill through, so go slowly and stop if it binds. Always wear safety glasses.

Kits are cheap compared with the cost of ruining a piece of furniture. In UK shops, sets range from under £4 for a basic set to over £40 for a branded one.

8. Use a Left-Hand Drill Bit

A left-hand drill bit cuts while the drill runs in reverse. As it bites, the twisting force can unscrew a stuck or damaged screw before you even need an extractor. If it does not, it has already made the centred pilot hole you need.

1. Centre punch the screw, then choose a bit slightly smaller than the screw shaft.
2. Set your drill to reverse at low speed.
3. Drill steadily and keep the bit centred.
4. If the screw does not come out, switch to a screw extractor.

9. Drill Out the Stripped Screw

When nothing else works, destroy the screw instead. This always works but leaves a damaged hole.

1. Centre punch the middle of the head.
2. Pick a bit slightly smaller than the screw shaft.
3. Drill carefully through the head, keeping straight.
4. Pull out the leftover pieces with pliers or tweezers.
5. Repair or enlarge the hole (see the material section below).

How to Remove a Stripped Screw Without a Drill

You can often do it without any power tools. Use methods 1 to 4 in order: the right screwdriver, a rubber band, mole grips on a proud head, or a tapped-in larger driver. If you own a hacksaw, you can also cut a new slot by hand (method 5). These will not help with a completely rounded, flush screw. For that, you will need to borrow or buy a drill and extractor.

How to Remove a Stripped Screw From Different Materials

Wood

Wood can split or the hole can open up, so avoid brute force. Try methods 1 to 4, then an extractor if the head is flush. Once the screw is out, a worn hole will not hold a new screw. Fill it with wood glue and a matching dowel or a few matchsticks, let it dry, then re-drill a pilot hole.

Metal

Metal screws are often rusted or thread-locked as well, and hardened tools can snap inside them. Apply penetrating oil if the screw is stuck, drill slowly and use a centre punch. If you drill out a threaded hole, you may need a thread repair insert or a larger screw.

Plasterboard

Check what is actually turning. If the screw spins endlessly without moving, the problem is often a spinning wall plug, not a stripped head. The plastic plug is rotating inside the plasterboard.

• Pull the screw head outwards with pliers while you turn it, so the plug’s teeth catch.
• If that fails, cut or dig the plug out and fill the hole.
• Fit a new plasterboard fixing, and a larger one if the hole has grown.

If you are putting up shelves or party decorations, such as the ones in our birthday party decoration ideas, use the correct fixing for plasterboard so this does not happen again.

Plastic

Plastic cracks easily and melts. Use light force, a well-fitting bit and the rubber band trick. Avoid heat and hammering.

Electronics

Small screws shear easily and the parts around them are fragile. Use a precision screwdriver that matches the head, and try a rubber band for light damage. Avoid drilling, extractors and heat unless you have no other option. If you are repairing a handset, it can help to know which phone you are working on first, and our Android vs iPhone comparison is a good place to check the differences.

Material	Main problem	Start with	Avoid
Wood	Splitting, worn hole	Correct bit, rubber band, extractor if flush	Heavy force
Metal	Rust, snapped tools	Penetrating oil, extractor, slow drilling	Rushing the drill
Plasterboard	Spinning plug	Pull head out while turning	Forcing the screw
Plastic	Cracking	Rubber band, light pressure	Heat, hammering
Electronics	Tiny, brittle screws	Precision driver	Extractors, heat

What to Do If a Stripped Screw Breaks Off Flush

If the screw snaps level with, or below, the surface, there is no head left to grip, so mole grips and screwdrivers are out. Treat it as a separate problem.

1. Mark the exact centre of the broken shaft with a centre punch.
2. Drill a small, carefully centred pilot hole, ideally with a left-hand bit.
3. Use a suitable extractor, or keep drilling out the remains.
4. Repair the hole afterwards.

For structural, high-precision or expensive items, get a professional such as a joiner, mechanic or machine shop. Trying too hard can ruin the part.

Should You Use Penetrating Oil or Heat on a Stripped Screw?

Only when the screw is also stuck. Oil and heat loosen rust, corrosion and thread-locking glue. They do not repair a rounded head.

Situation	Oil or heat?	Why
Freshly stripped screw in clean wood	No	Nothing is stuck, only the head is damaged
Stripped and rusty metal screw	Penetrating oil, then retry	Oil seeps into rusted threads
Screw with thread-lock glue	Gentle, controlled heat (metal only)	Heat softens the glue
Screw near plastic, finishes or wires	No heat	Risk of melting, scorching or fire

Oil can stain wood and heat can damage finishes, so keep both away from anything you want to stay clean. Afterwards, wipe up residue properly. Our guide to household cleaning products covers what works on greasy marks.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong screwdriver size or type.
• Carrying on after the bit has slipped.
• Using too much force, especially with mole grips.
• Using mole grips on a flush screw.
• Drilling off-centre, with no centre punch.
• Choosing the wrong extractor size.
• Heating near plastic or anything flammable.
• Forcing a snapped extractor instead of stopping.

How to Prevent Screws From Getting Stripped

• Match the bit to the screw: PH for Phillips, PZ for Pozidriv, and check the size number.
• Keep the driver straight and press firmly.
• Use the clutch setting on your drill so it stops before over-tightening.
• Replace worn bits.
• Drill a pilot hole in hard wood.
• Use the right screw for the material.

If you are building flat-pack or fitting kit, such as the gear in our luxury home gym equipment guide, tighten by hand at the end rather than letting a drill finish the job. And if you are looking for a bit set or a manual for an odd screw type, you can exclude words from your Google search to cut out irrelevant results.

Once a repair is done, a piece of furniture you rescued could even be worth selling. Our list of the best things to sell online shows what sells well.

Frequently Asked Questions About Removing Stripped Screws

What is the easiest way to remove a stripped screw?

Try a snug-fitting screwdriver first, then a wide rubber band. If the head sticks out, use mole grips.

Does the rubber band trick really work on stripped screws?

Sometimes. It works on lightly stripped screws that are not stuck. On a smooth, rounded head the band just tears.

How do you remove a completely stripped screw?

Cut a new slot if you can reach the head, or use a screw extractor kit. Drill it out if both fail.

How do you remove a stripped screw without special tools?

Use a rubber band, a bigger screwdriver tapped in, or mole grips if the head is raised.

How do you remove a stripped screw without a drill?

Use methods 1 to 5 above: a better bit, rubber band, mole grips, a tapped-in driver or a hacksaw slot.

What is the best tool for removing a badly stripped screw?

A screw extractor kit used with a drill is the most reliable tool for a badly stripped, flush screw.

Can WD-40 help remove a stripped screw?

Only if the screw is also rusted or stuck. It cannot fix a damaged head, and the oil can make a rubber band or driver slip.

How do you remove a stripped screw that will not turn?

It is probably stripped and seized. Apply penetrating oil, give it time, then use a manual impact driver or an extractor.

How do you remove a stripped screw with no head?

Centre punch the stub, drill a pilot hole, then use an extractor or left-hand bit. See the flush-break section above.

How do you remove a stripped screw from wood without damaging it?

Avoid heavy force. Use a good-fitting bit, a rubber band or an extractor, then plug and re-drill the hole.

Why does a screw keep spinning but not come out?

Either the driver is slipping in a stripped head, or in plasterboard the wall plug is spinning behind it. Check which one is turning.

Can you use pliers to remove a stripped screw?

Yes, but only on a head that sticks out. Mole grips are better than ordinary pliers because they lock on.

Sources

• Black+Decker support: How do I use a screw extractor?
• RS Components: Screw extractors guide
• Wikipedia: Cam out
• Lowe’s: How to remove a stripped screw
• Better Homes & Gardens: How to remove a stripped screw
• UK extractor set prices: Screwfix, Town Tools, Cromwell and Rock Bottom product pages